Thank you for adopting a cat from Laurel Cats, Inc. All the fosters and volunteers fall in love with the kittens and cats and we know you will fall in love with your new cat also. We want the cat to do well  and know that it isn’t always easy to bring a new cat in to your home Whether it is to give company to a cat you already have or if this is your first cat, all cats need time to adjust. Therefore we want you to have this handout to assist with the adoption. Ensure you are given the vet paperwork from the Foster. If not please contact the Adoption Coordinator.

 

Please contact the Foster or email the Adoption Coordinator at adoptions@laurelcats.org if you have any questions or issues with your cat for the first 2 weeks. Depending upon how shy your kitten is, it could take that long for it to stop hiding. If it does hide this is normal. Please don’t wait for a month to go by before letting us know of any issues you are having with your cat not getting along with your other adult cats in the house etc. We want to know as soon as you know so we can assist you.

 

There is a lot of good information online that will help you with your new cat(s) fitting into its new home. The information we are enclosing here is from Petfinder and is called “Tips for the first 30 days of Cat Adoption”. Here is the link to the website https://www.petfinder.com/cats/bringing-a-cat-home/tips-for-first-30-days-cat/

 

Before You Bring Your Cat Home:

• Cats are territorial, and coming into a new home leaves them feeling really uneasy. There’s all that unexplored space, and who knows what may lurk there. Do him a favor and provide a small area to call his own for the first few days or weeks. A bathroom or laundry room works well. Furnish the room with cat amenities, such as food, water, a scratching post and a litter box. You’ll want to spend time with your cat, so make sure there’s a comfortable place for you to sit as well.
• Fill a litter box with one or two inches of litter and place it in his room where he can use it undisturbed. After all, everyone deserves a modicum of privacy when pottying, and giving him that will help forestall litter box aversion. Not sure which litter to choose? Check out How to Choose A Cat Litter.
• Set up a feeding station with food and water bowls. Locate it away from the litter box. For more cat feeding and nutrition tips, visit our Pet Nutrition section.
• Cats love to get away from it all in small places, and you can provide one for your new cat as his own little safe haven. If he came home in a cat carrier, that might be a good choice. You can also make one by cutting a doorway for her in the end of a box. If you prefer, you can buy a covered cat bed at a pet supply store. In either case, make sure the space is big enough for the cat to stand up and turn around in. Cat “feng shui” probably requires that he or she be able to see the door to the room from his hidey hole, so he won’t be startled.
• A cat’s claws need to be worn down, and they do this by scratching on things. Since you prefer that it not be your chairs and sofa, provide your cat with a socially acceptable scratching place. Some types are made of corrugated cardboard and lie on the floor; others are posts which have to be tall enough so that the cat can extend himself upward to scratch. You can encourage your cat (once he has arrived) to use the post by sprinkling it with catnip or dangling a toy at the top. He’ll get the idea. You’ll probably want a scratching post in each room where there is soft furniture, perhaps blocking access to it. You can also install sticky tape (available at pet supply stores) to corners of upholstered furniture to dissuade scratching. Don’t miss these tips on how to cut down on kitty’s scratching, how to choose a scratching post, and facts about declawing cats. Your adoption contract states that Laurel Cats does not allow declawing for any reason.
• Look at your house with a curious cat’s eye view for its climbing and exploring potential. When your cat is acclimated to your home, you may be surprised to find him on top of the upper kitchen cabinets, so make sure there’s nothing on display there or on other high shelves that can be damaged or knocked off.
• Look for holes or registers that leave ductwork accessible and cover them up. A kitten can easily slither into one of these. You won’t want firemen in the house, jackhammering the concrete floor to extract your cat.

 

• If possible, buy a cat tree for your new family member. Cats like to survey their territory, so a high perch is often a favored resting place.
• If there are other human family members, go over the ground rules about your new pet. Remind them not to startle him and to keep the door to his room shut.
• Bone up on how to introduce your cat to other pets. Keep her door closed and don’t let your other pet race in unexpectedly. See also: New Cat Introductions and Living with Cats and Dogs.

First Day:

Now, you are ready for your cat’s homecoming. Preferably, bring her home in a cat carrier. It will feel safer to her. She has seen a lot of excitement, so take her directly to her new room. (Make sure the toilet lid is down, if she’s to acclimate in your bathroom.) Ideally, you would restrict her exposure to the whole family, but naturally, everyone is going to want to see her. Remind them of the ground rules you’ve set up.

• Sit on the floor and let her come to you. Don’t force her. Just let her get acquainted on her own time. If she doesn’t approach, leave her alone and try again later. Some cats are particularly frightened, and she may retreat to her hidey hole and not come out when you’re around at all. She may only come out at night when the house is quiet. Give her time.
• Your newly adopted cat may not eat much, or at all, at first. It’s best to give your cat the same food she had at the shelter or in her foster home, at least at first. Keeping some things familiar will make her feel more secure. Be sure to change her water frequently and make sure that she is drinking. If your cat hasn’t eaten for a few days, call your vet to ask for advice.

Following Weeks:

It may take your cat a week or two to adjust. Be patient.

• Within a week of being adopted, take your newly adopted cat for her first wellness visit with a veterinarian. Take your vet paperwork with you. Don’t have a vet? Check out these tips for finding the right vet for you and your cat.
• As your cat adjusts, she’ll show signs that she wants to explore outside her safe haven. Make sure other pets or family members won’t startle her while she gradually expands her territory. She may be ready to play, so you can furnish some toys. Many cats like feather wands from the pet supply store, but homemade toys are often favored. A wad of a tissue paper to bat around or a paper bag to hide in can be fun but be sure they have no exposure to plastic bags.  For more ideas on how to keep your cat entertained see Keeping Your Cat from Getting Bored.

Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you’ll be on your way to having a well-adjusted feline family member.

Other things to assist you:

 

INTRODUCING  OTHER CATS TO  YOUR CAT

 

If you have personal pets who are cats, you'll need to introduce them to the cat.  Even if you know the your cat is good with other cats, you'll want to do the introductions gradually.

 

Over a one- to two-week period, let the cats smell each other through a closed door, but don't allow them contact with one another.  Exchanging blankets or towels between the areas will help them get used to each other's smells.

 

The next step is to allow them to see each other through a baby gate or a door that is propped open two inches.  If the cats are interested in each other and seem comfortable, allow them to meet. Open the door to the rooms between the cats and observe them closely.

 

If any cat shows signs of significant stress or aggression, separate them again and introduce them more slowly.  It's a good idea to have a broom or water squirt bottle on hand to deter any fights. Never try to separate cats who are fighting with your hands or body parts.

 

INTRODUCING  DOGS TO YOUR CAT

 

If you have a personal pet who's a dog, you'll need to make the introduction to the cat carefully and safely.  Start by keeping them separated at first. Before your cat comes to your home, create a separate "territory" for her and equip it with food, water, a scratching post, a litter box, and comfortable resting places.

 

Over a one- to two-week period, let the dog and cat smell each other through the door, but don't allow them contact with one another. Exchanging blankets or towels between the dog's area and the cat's area will help them get used to each other's smells.

 

After a week or two, do the face-to-face introduction.  Keeping your dog on leash, allow your foster cat out in the same area.  If you have more than one dog, introduce one at a time. Do not allow the dog to charge or run directly up to the cat.  Try to distract the dog as best you can so that the cat has the chance to approach without fear. Watch the body language of each animal closely and don't continue the interaction if either pet becomes over-stimulated or aggressive. The idea is to keep the interactions positive, safe and controlled.

 

Finally, never leave your dog unsupervised around the cat.

 

CHILDREN  AND CATS

 

Since we don't always know a cat's history or tolerance level for different types of people and activities, please teach your children how to act responsibly and respectfully around your cat.  You should still supervise all interactions between children and your new cat. Key things to remind your children:

1. Always leave the cat alone when he/she is eating or sleeping. Some cats may nip or bite if bothered while eating or startled while sleeping.
2. Do not tease or rile up the cat.
3. Don't chase the cat around the house; it may scare him.
4. Pick up the cat only when an adult is there to help.  Cats can become scared when picked up, and they sometimes scratch with their sharp nails, even though they don't mean to cause harm.
5. Be careful when opening and closing doors so as to not accidentally let the cat outside.

 

FEEDING  YOUR KITTEN

 

All kittens should be fed a diet of dry cat food, and supplement with can food.  If feeding both dry and wet, then provide dry food at all times and feed wet food twice a day.  Here is the amount of dry food that should be given to your cat a day based on their age:

 

7 weeks - 6 months     1/3 – 3/4 cup

7 months - 1 year        1/2 – 3/4 cup

 

Make sure the cat always has access to fresh, clean water. Also, do not leave can food out any longer than 20 – 30 minutes.

 

To bond with your kitten when they are eating wet food, only put dry food in their dish that is out at all times. Once or twice a day place wet food in dish, place dish on your lap and place kitten in your lap so it can eat from the dish. Use one or two fingers to pet your kitten while it eats. Do this once or twice a day. After they eat they will purr or want to snuggle or be further petted once they get used to you. This will help to have them come to you on their own for attention.

 

LITTER  BOX – KITTENS  AND CATS

 

General Information

 

If your cat is not using the litter box. Keep in mind that a cat may miss the litter box if she has a medical issue like diarrhea or she may avoid the box if she has a urinary tract infection, which causes pain when urinating.

 

If your  cat has an accident, don't discipline or punish her.  It will only teach her to fear and mistrust you. Clean up all accidents with an enzymatic cleaner.  Nature's Miracle and Simple Solution are two products containing natural enzymes that tackle tough stains and odors and remove them permanently.

 

Location of Litter Box

Most people want to put the litter box in an out-of-the-way place so they can minimize odors and loose particles of cat litter around the house.  Often, the litter box ends up in the basement, possibly next to an appliance on a cold cement floor. But that type of location is often undesirable to cats. Young kittens may not be able to get down a long flight of stairs in time to relieve themselves.  And adult cats new to a home may not remember where the litter box is if it's hidden away in a distant location.

 

Another thing to keep in mind is that if your litter box is next to a sometimes-noisy appliance, such as a furnace/washer/dryer/etc., cats may become startled when the appliance turns on.  If you have other cats, there should be at least one litter box for each cat. The litter boxes should be placed in quiet, low-traffic spots so that the cats aren't startled when trying to take care of business.

 

You can compromise by placing the litter box in a location that gives the cat some privacy, but is also conveniently located (such as a closet or spare bathroom).  If you place the litter box in a closet, make sure the closet door is wedged open from both sides to keep the cat from being trapped inside or outside of the closet.  If the litter box sits on a smooth, slick or cold surface, consider putting a small throw rug or mat underneath the box. The cats will have something to scratch and less litter will be tracked through your house.

 

Type and Depth of Litter

Research has shown that most cats prefer fine-grained litters.  Clumping litters are usually finer in grain than typical clay litter.  With kittens younger than 3 months, though, use only non-clumping litter. You can use wood pellets or similar type of litter.  The reason is that very young kittens tend to taste their litter and play in it. If you use clumping litter, the dust from the litter can solidify in their respiratory or digestive tracts.

 

Different cats prefer different depths of litter, but most cats don't like litter that's more than about two inches deep.  Cats don't choose areas for elimination where they sink into several inches of litter or dirt. It's not true that the more litter you put into a litter box, the less often you will have to clean it.  Regular daily cleaning is essential, regardless of the depth of the litter.

 

Cleaning the Box

Litter boxes should always be kept clean. Feces/Urine should be scooped out of the litter box at least once a day.  The number of cats and the number of litter boxes will determine how often the litter needs to be dumped and completely changed.  Once a week is a general guideline, but you may need to change it more or less often, depending on the circumstances. If you notice any odor or if much of the litter is wet or clumped, it is time to change all the litter.

 

When washing the litter box, do not use strong-smelling chemicals or cleaning products because the smell of vinegar, bleach or pine cleaners may cause the cat to avoid using the litter box.  Washing with soap and water should be sufficient. You can also use a toilet bowl brush to clean the litter box and the scooper you use. Put on a little toilet bowl cleaner, fill with hot water and then use the brush to scrub everything down.  Letting the container air-dry is also a good idea, but it will be necessary to have a back-up litter box while the other one is being cleaned.